reviewed by Diane Hudson – Oct. 2004
Here at 849 Forest Avenue in Portland, Glaswegian Peter Haggarty dishes up the city’s only “Brit-Indi” cuisine, a treasure-trove of spicy take-away delights fit for a rajah≠or Sebago-bound commuters. “Brit-Indi is the number one food in the UK,” says Haggarty, who fell into the trade via one of his mates, a Punjabi rock musician whose family owns a restaurant in his native Glasgow, Scotland.
Recreating the flavors here, Haggarty offers “Indi” favorites like Korma, Garlic Chili, and Masala. Starters include vegetable, chicken, and mushroom pakoras ($3.50 to $4.50), the ingredients marinated in Indian spices, deep fried in a chick-pea batter, and served with a flavorful yogurt dip; chicken chaat ($4.50), chicken “drummettes” marinated in a spiced yogurt, grilled, and served on a bed of lettuce; and a richly satisfying mixed platter, a festival of all the above ($6.50).
Entrees include basmati rice and a medley of intriguing sauces accenting your choice of seasonal vegetables ($7.95), chicken or beef ($8.95), shrimp ($9.50), or lamb ($9.50). My partner was drawn immediately to the Malaidar, a spinach purÈe simmering in garlic with ≥lashings≤ of light cream that Haggerty insightfully paired with the lamb. Spot on! A sweet, almost smoky flavor bursts from this sauce, and with lamb it is sinfully scrumptious.
Next, try Ceylonese Korma with some shrimp, Haggarty suggests. It’s a smashing notion, mild and coconutty-a soothing balm for the very hot, excellent South Indian garlic chili.
On our next visit we’ll try the Chicken Tikka ($9.50), a sliced chicken breast marinated in Indian yogurt, char-grilled, and served with rice, fried onions, mixed peppers, and our choice of entrÈe sauce. The Karahi Bhoona, resplendent with ginger and garlic, and the Masala, a rich blend of herbs, spices, onions, green pepper, and yogurt, would be equally enjoyable accompaniments. Brit-Indi, the number one food in the UK. Given what Haggarty is doing here, it could easily climb to a similar status stateside, especially in this colony.
Haggarty’s, 849 Forest Avenue, Portland. 761-8222 or www.haggartys.com
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