Winterguide 2011

By Diane Hudson

Jacques Brel* ‘Likes’ This…

*Theatricality is alive and well and living in the Old Port at The Salt Exchange.

Tonight, our stop is nothing short of fantastic. First, we slide into a precious parking space reserved for Salt Exchange diners only. “Not bad!” we say upon entering the paneled bar to consider a creative selection of cocktails, wines, and beers. My partner selects a robust, dark, slightly bitter brew, Long Trail Imperial Porter ($6), as we watch the snow dance through the windows. My pretty poison is a Cran-Mary Margarita ($10.75)–cranberry puree, fresh rosemary, lime, Sauza Tequila, and Triple Sec tweaked with vanilla-bean-rosemary sugar and grounded by a salted rim. Who cares if it’s blustery outside? The warm, exhilarating flavors hint of things to come.

Next, we’re whisked to a table vibrating with an artsy jubilance that convinces us fun is alive and well and living in the Paris of the Northeast. The bright paintings on display (owners Martha & Charlie Bryon exhibit local artists’ work here, with shows changing every three months) contribute to the sense of dining as showtime.

The small-plate (3 to 5 make a complete dinner) menu choices are sensational, imaginative, and affordably priced. The Hudson Valley Foie Gras Terrine ($17) has real wow factor, served with cherries, pistachios, and savory black pepper confections–truly a memorable experience. Ditto for the skillfully crafted pork terrine ($5) served with whole-grain mustard and shaved beef tongue ($9) highlighted with a soy-caramel-ginger vinaigrette.

All is prelude to the tender, tasty braised beef ($17), cooked to perfection with wild mushrooms, red wine, bacon, root vegetable puree, carrot, onion, and jus. This is intense richness, magnified by the arrival at the table of a sidecar of Old Vine Beaujolais. Together, the ingredients help diners to create a traditional chabrot, a provincial French custom used to lengthen a soup or broth by pouring half a glass of wine over the dish.

The pan-seared veal cutlet ($16) with pan sauce and capers draws robust cheers, with knockout flavors and tasty, attractive counterpoints of creamy spinach potato and local vegetables.

Even our desserts dare to fascinate: Earl Grey tea-infused panna cotta with tangy berry compote ($8). A perfect finish to a palate-pleasing expedition.

The Salt Exchange
245 Commercial Street, Portland
Tuesday-Sunday, open lunch and dinner
347-5687, thesaltexchange.net