TUSCAN HOLIDAY
Grissini adds zest, romance, and warmth to the Kennebunks.

reviewed by Diane Hudson Dec 07

Lingering over multiple courses at Grissini Italian Bistro is the kind of relaxed seduction that brings out the best of a starry December night.

Enticed by the three-course Grissini Menu del Giorno at $51 per person (a two-course menu is available for $47), we drank in the rustic atmosphere–as well as wines paired to accompany the menu ($25 additional).

Around us, other diners dove into enviable arrays of antipasti, zuppe, insalate, handmade pasta, wood-grilled pizza, and a dazzling array of enticing entrées including Agnello, honey-glazed lamb shank served over a three-bean ragu ($29); the very popular Pollo allo Brace, wood-grilled farm-raised half chicken, grilled asparagus, and cipollini onions ($22); Salmone alla Griglia, wood-grilled salmon, shitake mushrooms, spinach, garlic mashed potatoes, and balsamic butter ($24); and Merluzzo, pan-seared cod served with spicy tomato-oregano sauce, fingerling potatoes, and mussels ($27).

But as our Menu del Giorno unfolded before us, we felt as though we were the center of the show, with two choices per course for us to select from (great if you love, as we do, to share). For Primi, we savored Pere alla Griglia, a wood-grilled half pear with candied walnuts, very good gorgonzola, radicchio, watercress, and perfect port shallot vinaigrette; and Insalata con Salmone, mouth-watering house-smoked salmon mixed in with apples, almonds, goat cheese, frissee, radichio, and apple-cider vinaigrette.

For Secondi, our main entrée, our hands-down preference was my Costoletta di Manzo, a wood-grilled tenderloin ‘Rossini,’ atop a toasted brioche, with chanterelles all drenched in a spectacular marsala truffle sauce. Fork tender and cooked perfectly, this is the best beef we’ve had anywhere to date. Topping the whole affair is a delicious pan-seared foie gras. Finally, the show-stopper, Astice alla Griglia, wood-grilled 1½-pound lobster with clarified butter.

My partner’s Torta di Mele, caramelized apple tart with cinnamon mascarpone cream, was lovely for the few seconds before it was decadently devoured (I managed a small, memorable taste). My Tiramisu alla Veneziana is as good it gets. Grissini makes its own “sponge,” resulting in a much lighter, creamier dish than most, elegantly topped with shaved chocolate. Buon Appetito!

Grissini Italian Bistro, 27 Western Avenue, Lower Village, Kennebunkport. www.restaurantgrissini.com or 967-2211.

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