Wait a minute. That really does taste like chicken!
reviewed by Diane Hudson – WinterGuide 2008
Newly opened Green Elephant, with sensational vegetarian specialties, is likely to generate a mammoth supply of greenbacks for its enterprising and engaging young owners, Danai Sriprasert (“Dan,” 29) and Nattasak Wongsaichua (“Bob,” 34), both born in Thailand.
This is not your average Thai bistro. You’ll not find meat or fish in any form here. You might not know it, however. The partners laughingly tell a story of how one day a diner held up his fork with a piece of soy meat on it so deliciously authoritative he yelled in dismay, “There’s chicken in my dish!”
For example, Siamese Dream Curry Noodle ($14) sports unmistakable tofu (small square chunks crisped to a deep golden color), but there are also slices of soy protein that anyone would swear was chicken by its texture and the way it absorbs the delicious coconut curry flavor of the broth. This, along with the lovely rice noodles, snow peas, carrots, red peppers, spinach, fried shallots, and cashew nuts, is, in fact, a dream of a dish that will set a meat lover raving instead of complaining.
Which is not to say we skipped the appetizers. The crisp, non-greasy spring rolls, stuffed generously with vegetables and Shitake mushroom ($5), arrive piping hot.
The Roti Canai, an Indian-style pancake topped with fried shallots and served with a terrific vegetable curry dip ($6), is superb, as is the wrap of gorgeous green leaves around mango and herbs ($7). Served with a tasty tamarind dip topped with toasted sesame seeds, these elegant rolls of collard greens, cilantro, sliced carrots, mango, and bamboo sprouts are almost too pretty to eat.
An unbelievably tantalizing dish is the veggie-tuna salad, perfectly prepared with mint, lemongrass, cilantro, ginger, bell pepper, scallion, and green leaves ($9). The textured soy protein has such a convincing tuna look, feel, and taste, that it’s hard to believe it isn’t tuna.
For entrées, we shared the spinach noodle and vegetable ($12) and the addictive peanut curry ($13). The noodle dish, resplendent with garlicky flavors, was stir-fried in shitake-ginger sauce with bok choy, snow pea, carrot, and soy protein. The curry, slow cooked with coconut milk, soy protein (for all the world, just like breast of chicken), chickpea, savory sweet potato, carrot, and onion, was tasty indeed. Desserts include tofu cheesecake, banana and coconut milk, and taro ice cream. The wines and beers are thoughtfully selected; the house Chardonnay, Grove Ridge 2005, California ($5 glass $17 bottle), was a good complement, particularly with the curries.
608 Congress St. Portland, 347-3111. Monday through Saturday lunch and dinner; closed Sunday.
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