Five-O

Reviewed By Diane Hudson June 2006

diningguideA favorite summer outing for us has long been a day trip to the Ogunquit Museum of American Art, de-scribed by Francis Henry Taylor of the Metropolitan Museum of Art as “the most beautiful little museum in the world.”

But where to eat? Ogunquit’s celebrated Five-O, just a mile down Shore Road, is one way to complete a perfect day.

The menu changes daily here, although the Filet Mignon ($28), Wild Pacific Salmon Fillet ($25), Free Range Chicken Breast ($24), and Baked Stuffed Haddock ($25) are likely to be served most evenings. Appe-tizers in-clude Escargot ($12), Rope Cultured Maine Mussels ($9.50), and Beef Tenderloin Brochette ($11).

We began with Foie Gras Torchon ($12). Featherly light, the torchon’s musky flavor blended beautifully with a semi-sweet peach chutney, pleasantly sharp frisée, and superb aged balsamic.

Ordering the Char-Grilled Filet Mignon rare, my partner got it exactly as re-quested. The filet, a generous cut, was almost unbelievably sweet, and absolutely fork tender with the deep-roasted garlic demi glace gracing its natural flavor but in no way overpowering it. The accompanying celeriac mascarpone mashed potatoes were divine, the gorgonzola tuile positioned almost playfully in the potatoes, the essence of that very sharp cheese: delightfully tangy. Even better–-if indeed the divine can be trumped–were the amazing vegetables, a visual delight. More important, they tasted fresh out of a neighbor’s garden. Exquisite golden beets; crisp, tiny carrot halves still topped with a vibrant bit of green; and succulent grilled asparagus worked wondrously with both our main entrees.

My Honey-Hazelnut-Encrusted Lamb ($32)–eight tantalizing ribs–was superb in its red-wine rosemary demi glace. The accompanying potato and vegetables, the same array as my partner’s, were equally wonderful with the lamb.

For dessert, don’t miss the Artisanal cheese plate ($10)–the chef’s daily selection of handcrafted cheeses and fruit accompaniment–or try the Black and White Creme Brulee (Venezuelan chocolate layered with vanilla bean), the raspberry sorbet, or the Amaretto Mousse Di Cioccolatto Bianco (all desserts are $8.50).

But hurry, or you’ll be late to the third leg of Ogunquit’s artistic trifecta, a show at Ogunquit Playhouse (tickets: 646-5511)!

Five-O, 50 Shore Road, Ogunquit. Dinner daily from 5 to 10 pm; cocktail lounge with late-night menu also available. 646-5001

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