reviewed by Diane Hudson August 2004
Luxury. That word connotes our dining experience at Eve’s at the Garden, the restaurant nestled inside the Portland Harbor Hotel. Here in the beautifully landscaped courtyard, spoiled by a first-class wait staff, youπre dining al fresco surrounded by the garden and its intriguing pond, gushing fountain, and amazing sculpture.
The menu, like the garden, is resplendent with an array of exquisite items to ponder. Add to that a terrific wine list and innovative martini menu, and the eagerness to embark on what is sure to be a good culinary adventure quickly sets in.
An attractive assortment of appetizers beckons. I couldn’t resist the lobster ravioli ($10), wonderfully flavored with fennel and a slight undertone of cayenne heat. The grilled hearts of romaine ($8) are tasty with a roasted garlic oil, a hint of balsamic, and reggiano. Appetizers here are generous and could easily make for a light meal, particularly accompanied by the hearty bread baked locally by Standard Bakery.
Eve’s entrÈes, however, should not be missed. My partner’s choice, the hanger steak ($24), was absolutely brilliant. Perfectly cooked as ordered, the tender beef was accented by an onion ragout with brie and thyme, incredibly flavorful garlic mashed potato, and the most succulent baby carrots imaginable- truly a divine combination. Always on the hunt for the perfect lamb, I chose the Australian lamb chop and loin, poached pear, parsnip potato, blackberry beurre noisette ($27). I ordered it rare. Mouth-wateringly perfect, the lamb, not to mention the potato and sauce accompaniment, were as good as it gets; the frizzled greens and pear interesting but just shy of perfect. Chef Jeff Landry (formerly of Cinque Terre and Harraseeket Inn), new to Eveπs at the time of this writing, is still exploring the niche. In any event, there is no doubt that dining at Eveπs, with its wonderful garden ambience and studied commitment to excellence, is an experience to plan on and savor. Sitting in this oasis of luxury, itπs almost impossible to believe youπre in the whirling center of the Old Port. Eveπs at the Garden is a winner.
Eve’s at the Garden, in the Portland Harbor Hotel, 468 Fore Street, Portland, 523-2010, www.portlandharborhotel.com.
0 Comments