The fickle fortunes of sardines in Maine.

By Diane Hudson

How many sardines can you cram into Grand Central Station? For decades, a shimmering coterie of chefs and gourmets has tried to unravel just that riddle, celebrating the arrival of the Dutch nieuwe maatjesharing (new virgin herring) catch each summer at the terminal’s venerable Oyster Bar.

It’s more important than just a trend. In fact, revived enthusiasm for “silver of the sea” is out of the can. Why? Herring and sardines (same family of fish) can be caught in huge abundance for a hungry world. In a COVID-chastened marketplace where Spam is haute cuisine, practical is beautiful—and exotically tasty too.

See the full story in the digital magazine above.