Reviewed by Diane Hudson Sept 2008
Emilitsa is not simply ‘the new Greek restaurant in Portland.’ It is the most exciting new dining establishment of any kind here, and it happens to be Greek.
Sleek, urban, and altogether warm, Emilitsa–named for owner John Regas’s mother, Emily–sports a magnificent white marble bar, private nook in the back with a glowing black marble table, floor-to-ceiling wine rack, gorgeous exposed brick walls, and handsome lighting.
Admiring the atmosphere, we quickly ordered the poikilia trio appetizer. For $11, we gorged on a selection of three of Greece’s best dipping sauces: a terrific tzatziki, a cucumber-garlic-yogurt dip made on the premises with thick, creamy Greek yogurt; taramasalata, a robust and lemony puréed red caviar; and an unbelievably magnificent melitzanosalata, a purée of char-grilled eggplant, tomato, herbs, and olive oil. An ample supply of grilled pita accompanies these delights.
The wine list, entirely Greek, includes such standards as Boutari Retsina ($24/$6) and Cambas Cabernet Sauvignon or Chardonnay ($28/$7). Add to that two dozen other selections, all in the $24-to-$50 range, and you have something unique for Maine.
As for the entrées, our oven-roasted whole young poussin stuffed with a lemony spinach rice pilaf and served with shiitake mushrooms ($25) was practically exploding with flavors. The herb topping was like none we have tasted. Why so extraordinary? John Regas–whose brother, Deno, is the chef here–explains that the herbs are imported directly from the Greek countryside.
Similar herbs infused my marinated free-range lamb chops–a substantial three–and helped contribute to a meal fit for the gods. This is the way lamb should be. The accompaniments were equally good: oven-roasted lemon potatoes–crisp on the outside, flavorful inside–together with grilled asparagus and sweet cherry tomatoes.
The desserts ($7) were a mouth-watering range: Latho’tourta, Greek semolina-olive oil cake with fresh orange slices and fresh lime chantilly; mouzzo, rich chocolate mousse laced with Sans Rival ouzo; baklava; and a Greek yogurt panna cotta topped with Greek mountain honey, glazed fresh apricots, and a sweet assyrtiko wine reduction.
After-dinner wines include Samos Anthemis ($50 for a half bottle), the dark sweet wine of Samos that Lord Byron praised, and the ubiquitous mavrodaphne ($20/$5).
Emilitsa is not a taverna serving up the great, everyday fare for which Greece is famous. This is high-end, and romantic. n
Emilitsa, 547 Congress Street, Portland, 221-0245. Monday-Thursday, 5-9 p.m.; Friday-Saturday, 5-10 p.m.; closed Sunday.
0 Comments