July/August 2018 | view this story as a .pdf

Two for the Show
It’s a farm-to-table-to-theater affair at Joshua’s in Wells.

By Colin W. Sargent

We’re driving down Route 1 in the balmy afterglow. It’s one of those precious evenings in Maine when the idea of staying in is just not on the table. We have tickets for an 8 p.m. performance at Hackmatack Playhouse in Berwick, but we’re in Wells, on the coast. Earlier in the day, we’d decided to check out Joshua’s–we’d heard good things about this Revolutionary War-era tavern that’s getting raves for its farm-to-table fare. But when we called for reservations, we got a message: they’d call us back within 24 hours.

Yikes. Who has 24 hours? So we just head down Route 1, figuring we’ll find something along the way, when there it is, perfectly located at 1637 Post Road, right before the turnoff to Route 9 and Berwick. This 1774 Colonial landmark was purchased in 2004 for $372,000, according to the town of Wells, and after extensive renovations was transformed into what is now Joshua’s. Barbara Mather, one of the owners, says the name comes from her son, Joshua Mather, who is the chef and part owner and “why we’re here.” Right away we can see Joshua’s is in ascension, because, early on a Wednesday and early in the season, the parking lot is full.

While they have no openings until 7:30 (that isn’t going to work), the bar is open with a full menu and a birds-eye maple counter. We have front-row seats with views of the drinks getting launched by a very efficient bartender, who chats as she works. It’s impossible not to order the delicious fresh Strawberry Cosmo, where she scoops the luscious berries from a bowl and muddles them right in front of us. No pre-mix here. The pale rose elixir lights up the room. Looking around, we see this drink is a big hit.

After enjoying the house-made Anadama Bread (molasses, fruit, and nuts) and focaccia, we choose Peekytoe Crab Cakes and the Arugula Salad as starters. The crab cakes are toothsome, with a crunchy crust and dill aioli, but the salad, garnished with bacon, pickled onions, and shaved Parmesan dressed with a truffle-oil vinaigrette, is even better. “The arugula is grown on our farm off Bald Hill Road,” the bartender tells us. “Just eight miles up the road.” It’s a perfect balance of salty, sweet, acid, and pungence, the arugula incredibly fresh.

We split a bottle of Argyle pinot noir from Oregon’s Willamette Valley, a yummy match for our generous five-ribbed Rack of Lamb au jus, with mustard crust and mushroom stuffing; fiddleheads; and truffled mashed potatoes. We turn to our perfectly cooked Swordfish (with fiddleheads, broccoli, asparagus, and mashed potatoes) and wonder which dish is better, deciding to return for another shot of the Rack of Lamb after the first chill of fall. The cost for drinks, wine, two appetizers, and two entrees is $150. We take our time enjoying our meal, because all we have to do is turn right on Route 9, relax, and drive. What about dessert? We’ll get to that.

We reach Hackmatack Playhouse at twilight and find our seats. Tonight, it’s Lend Me A Tenor. Between the acts, they serve fresh Strawberry Shortcake as part of a longtime mystical tradition. “The strawberries were picked this morning,” we’re told. They’re served on flaky biscuits with a double dollop of whipped cream. Under the stars. 

Joshua’s, 1637 Post Rd., Wells. Open 7 days, 5 – 10 p.m. 646-3355.