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Peasant sampling at Tiqa includes bacalao topped with calamari rings and hummus with braised beef and fresh pita. Inset Dried salt cod lets from Canada at Harbor Fish Market. S U M M E R G U I D E 2 0 1 5 2 1 1 HUNGRY EYE MEAGHANMAURICE cream meatballs white anchoviesfor un- der 8. Tapas and other single-item snacks that arent quite traditional appetizers are now standard everywhere. You can nibble on 4 kale chips and 6 lobster Rangoons at Liq- uid Riot on Commercial Street where small plates are the only plates and 8 fried honey- glazed cauliflower at Sur Lie. Theres 7 roast- ed bone marrow at Central Provisions. Bone marrow was huge here a few years ago. You could hardly dine out without spotting alarming dinosaur bones split and roasted being picked and scraped by adven- turous diners. Marrows still around but in less epic presentations. I introduced bone marrow when we first opened PJ says Pe- tite Jacquelines chef de cuisine Frederic El- iot. Id worked at Prune in NYC before that and we had it there all the time. Classic French is making a big comeback. FROM THE WINE-DARK SEA H ave you noticed how mainstream octopus is nowadays Its ironic considering the ubiquitousness of calamari that up until a few years ago no one who wasnt Greek apparently realized octopus was edible. Find it these days on the menu at Emelitsa as Oktopothi tis skaras grilled and drizzled with extra virgin olive oil and lemon. Its on the new East Ender menu grilled with fennel fingerlings pre- served-lemon yogurt and salsa verde for 13. At Eventide theres octopus salad with arugula and smoked pork jus. At Street Company you can find grilled octopus with organic potato chorizo and local kelp sauce. At Ebb Flow on Commercial Street which is devoted to all things Mediterra- nean a whole tentacle is charred and driz- zled with oil for 18. Ebb Flow sometimes has cuttlefish an even more uptown ceph- alopod which is daintier and more tender than squid or octopus. Cuttlefish turned up in Portland years ago on Fore Street Restau- rants ever-changing appetizer menu when its available its a wood-grilled treat. Octopus has exploded says Nick Branchina director of marketing at Browne Trading seafood market in Portland. Right now were getting them from Spain. They are whole and frozen in the six pound range. Restaurants buy them but people buy them to cook at home too. RUSTIC FANCY Octopus is part of a larger trend in Port- land restaurants these days. Call it gourmet Mediterranean peasant. Consider the humble salt cod. A dried staple for hundreds of years in cuisines from New England Yankee and Maritime Cana- da to Africa the Caribbean and the Medi- terranean seas cod is now a star in the Old Port in various creamy reconstitutions. Tiqa braises the cod in cream whips it with pota- to into Spanish bacalao drizzles it with olive oil and a sprinkle of sumac and garnishes it with a few crispy rings of fried calamari. Just delicious on the house pitas. Central Provisions has Gallic brandade croquettes made from house salted and dried hake a more sustainable fish than cod whipped until fluffy rolled into wal- nut-sized balls coated in crumbs and fried until crisp outside. Its everything you want in a small-plate peasant treat. At Piccolo on Middle Street the whipped baccala is served with chicken cracklings and an egg. At Browne Trading on Commercial Street they salt and dry cod in-house and sell it in whole filets which weigh two to four pounds each. Thats a lot of baccala. Harbor Fish Market carries the classic little one-pound wooden boxes of Canadi- an salt cod for 9.99. They also carry one- pound pieces of filet from Stonington that have already been salted dried reconstitut- ed vacuum-packed and frozenready to simmer and puree. SPREAD IT ON C hickpeas arent just for supermarket hummus anymore. Hummus itself has moved way uptown notably to 845 Forest Avenue where the Iraqi Tandoor Bread and Restaurant set up shop five years ago. Owner Audai Nasers mild creamy hummus is subtle nuanced and great on the tender pita bread he bakes all day every day. Tandoor brings both to the Monument Square farmers market on Wednesdays. Tiqas meze platter includes hummus and falafel along with baba ganoush. Its Re- vithiacrushed organic green chickpeas with olive oil and lemonat Ebb Flow. Eventide serves crisp batons of chickpea fries at Eventide while Lolita entices with Moroccan chick peas with kale and pre- served lemon as a vegetarian course. We combine chickpeas with tomato and Moroccan spices and layer it in a cast- iron cassole with kale says Lolitas chef