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Hungry EyE 120 p o r t l a n d monthly magazine FromLeFtFILeJoaquInmaLLmann found some great people through these pro- grams. Some of whom are now dazzling diners at some of the hot spots elsewhere downtown as this story shows. Our greatest challenge as bread bakers is consistency says Pray. At the same time we love to bake so were always looking for new ideas and inspiration. I love to travel specifically to visit bakeries. In Paris friends recommended Des Pains et des Idees in the Marais. There are lines out their door all day long. My favorite from their shop was a pain au levain roll with savory additions like ba- con and bleu cheese. tasty Career U-tUrns Bakers are like doctors says Catherine Co- t-Eliot pastry chef at Portland Patisserie on Market Street where dainty and precise French confections including cylindrical framboisiers and colorful macarons dazzle on platters and stands. We all have our spe- cialties. Im really not all that into breads. Which is not to say she doesnt know how. In fact Cot-Eliot 34 spent five years making bread and pastries at Standard Baking. Bakings my second career she says. I have a degree in architecture from Ohio State. But then I did a 10-month course at the French Culinary Institute in Man- hattan after which she ended up bak- ing at one of the Financier Patisseries in the financial district. I have a French last name Cot a French Canadian back- ground and a grandmother in Goulds- boro but I dont speak French. Her husband Frederic Eliot does hes chef at Petite Jacqueline which is owned like Portland Patisserie by the talented Steve and Michelle Corry. So how did Cath- erine meet this Parisian-born chef AtO.S.U.actually.Cookingisasecondca- reer for Fred too. He was the head of the uni- versitysITdepartmentandjustbeforeIleftfor a semester in France I went to ask him about goodplacestovisit.ThecouplemovedtoNew York where Catherine launched her pastry careeer and Fred cooked all overPrune Le CirquetheOakRoom. When they started a family they decid- ed to move to Portland. Frederics nighttime schedule dovetailed nicely with Catherines dawn baking routine in terms of sharing child-care duties. I didnt want a desk job she says but I feel my architecture training is useful to me as a baker. Im designing and creating things every day. She sure is. Her tender buttery bourbon W e marvel at the sheer number of restaurants in the Forest City but how about the bakeries Portland is the center of the universe for from-scratch flakey buttery first-class baked treats. Hot fresh scones lighter-than-air croissants deadly sweet sticky buns cookies breads and rolls are baked every day in small thriv- ing hives all over town. Magnet for talent Think of Standard Baking Company as the Harvard of Portland bakeries. People with sweet dreams and magic hands come to them. And if they leave Standards leg- end grows deeper in the culture. The cal- iber and availability of professional baking training has improved vastly since we first opened says Alison Pray who with hus- band Matt James owns Standard Baking now 20 years old. Their croissants morning buns and baguettes were the original bou- langerie delicacies that set a very high bar in Portland. Weve been really fortunate to have i went gluten-free myself about eight years ago says Bevin mcnulty owner andbakerofBam Bam BakeryonCom- mercial Street. i found the products on the market werent very delicious. Bevin began experimenting with her own recipes and studying alterna- tive baking. gluten is the protein in wheat thats what binds your bread and gives it elasticity and keep it to- gether. We use xantham gum to re- place this quality along with precise combinations of other non-wheat flours depending on the item. gluten-free does have something of an image problem. the biggest misperception is that it tastes gross dry and gross and boring says mc- nulty. one bite of a Funky monkey peanut butter chocolate chip and coconut cookie should clear this up. its delicate rich and intense. Bam Bams most popular items are whoopie pies in the summer and lemon bars and cookies in general. look for pumpkin whoopies with ma- ple filling this fall. Becca Carifio But what if wheat is out Catherine Cot-Eliot pauses to reflect for a moment at Portland Patisserie.