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64 p o r t l a n d monthly magazine meaghanmaurice like 6.5. The flavors are all from locally grown or foraged things says bartender Lilia Garce- lon. So there can be flavor variations from batch to batch. She delivers paddle boards with four small jars of colorful liquid nested in each. A sip of ginger kombucha is bright and refreshing. Mountain mint is subtle and earthy rather than mouthwash-flavored. Blueberry tastes of real Maine berries and like all of UFFs offerings its noticeably un- sugary. A sip of roasted tomato kombucha is improbably savory and tasty but our next selection is not. Seaweed cider is about as close as you can get to accidentally swallow- ing seawater at the beach. We distribute as far as Massachusetts and Vermont says operations manager Luke Finnemore. Locally find UFFs bev- erages at Whole Foods Aurora Provisions and the Rosemont markets. Or pick up a growler right at the Fermentory where you can request your own flavor mix. Blueber- ry-ginger is big says Garcelon. EvEn on thE half-shEll A t Eventide Oyster on Middle Street where the servers are all good-look- ing and the food is way above aver- age the menu is shot through with Asian influencestheres dashi chowder fried mussels nam prik and Thai fried chicken to name a few. Kimchionce known as a fi- ery pickled cabbage condiment for Korean foodis made here for use as a garnish and as a side dish. Half-inch ribbons of green cabbage carrot matchsticks and shredded onion are salted down then rinsed and drained says a prep cook who is garnish- ing whole lobster tails in their shells behind the counter. Then its seasoned with Kore- an chili paste ginger and a few other things and fermented for a few days. Three feet away a tall willowy woman with a ponytail is serenely shucking oysters. They put a bit of shrimp paste in the kim- chi too she says. This is spicy stuff in the range of cay- enne heat with a sour tang that comes from fermentation rather than vinegar and one heck of an aftertaste. You can have kimchi ice on your oysters here. It looks like a little cup of coral-colored sorbet but it has more zing and nuance. Kimchi is all over townin the Japanese creations at Pai Men Miyake even on the Seoul Dog hotdog at the Blue Rooster. fErmEnting vs. pickling Like sauerkraut kimchi is lacto-ferment- ed Its made in a simple traditional fer- mentation process that involves no vine- gar or sugar. Instead starches and sugars in the vegetables are converted into lactic acid through the fermenting process. Lactic acid is a natural preservative that prevents rot- ting which is why kraut and salt-brined pickles last so long. Modern food process- ing introduced vinegar as a picklingpre- servative which is fine but lacks the diges- tive benefit and adds no healthy flora to your intestinal tract. Miso is another probiotic food created through the lacto-fermenting of grains and soybeans. The Rosemont marketsa good source of assorted fresh fermented food and drinkcarry a fresh unpasteurized light miso made in Canada in the fridge case. The container has a recipe on the side for a sal- ad dressing made with miso. No longer con- fined to the hot cup of broth that precedes a sushi meal miso is widely used in or on roasted meats sauces noodles and other dishes now. farm frEsh fErmEnt Live fermented digestion-friendly foods are big business at the farmers market in Deering Oaks on Saturdays. Thirty Acre Farm has a shelf of jars Ferments712 reads a handwrit- ten sign. Theyve got sauerkraut jalapeno- spiked kraut and bright red ruby kraut. There are jars of fermented carrots and bot- tles of fermented hot sauce. D airy farmers have displays of un- pasteurized old-fashioned yogurt its full-fat rich and delicious with cream on top. At Swallowtail Farms stand you can choose fresh classic style Greek- style or fruit-flavored cows-milk yogurt Kimchi ice is the new cocktail sauce for shellfish at Eventide Oyster.