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Hungry EyE 54 p o r t l a n d monthly magazine CloCkwisefromtopshutterstoCkpolrogerduCktrapriverofmaine ian cured mullet roe delicious when shaved onto buttered fresh pasta is 22.40. A dozen dainty quail eggs have you had them sizzling in the little chambered cast-iron frying pan at Boda is 9.99. T hen its upstairs to consult with wine maven Chris Miller about a Cham- pagne worthy of the caviar. He en- dorses Alma Bellavista Italian sparkling wine 35. My absolute favorite is this Pol Roger Sir Winston Churchill Cham- pagnethey only bottle it in exception- al years. Its 310 and the exception- al year was 2002. Stop also at Sweetgrass Farm Winery and Distillerys tasting room on Fore Street for a bottle of their Back River Gin 27.45. This super-smooth white lightning makes a sensational martini that pairs up like a dream with smoked salmon. Hitting Stride Once you buy into spending freely you may be surprised to discover just how fast your tastes head uptown. You might not even feel like cooking. Sunday Im doing an 80th for a good cli- ent says Evalin Stearns whos been a cater- ersinceleavingasuccessfulrestaurantcareer in 1991. Its eight people and Im serving fi- let of beef from Fresh Approach au gra- tin gold potatoes from the farmers market and asparagus vinaigrette because its the favor- ite vegetable of the Birthday Boy. Start- ers are wild white shrimp with harissa or mango-lime sauce and smoked salmon rou- lade using Brownes salmon. What time shall we be there At HOMECateringCo. on Spring Street known to Portlanders as the little sandwich shop with exceptional Reuben sandwiches youcanorderfoodtopickupforyourholiday feasts or you can have co-owner chefs Matt Chamberlain and Brian Kowtko come to your house. Fancy events are generally what we do says Kowtko. We both have a lot of Portland restaurant experienceincluding Fore Street for Matt and Congress Bar Grill for Brian. We just did a birthday party for six women friends regular clients. One of them is always turning 40 so theyre always get- ting together. They asked for a French theme so we started with moules frites then braised local lamb shank cassoulet and pots de crme auchocolatfordessert.Thesekindsofdinners runinthe60to80rangeperpersonsoitsa lot like a restaurant. You might roast your own turkey or ham at home and pick up the sides from the ex- perts like HOME catering or Aurora Pro- visions. Auroras fall and holiday menu op- tions include maple horseradish Brussels sprouts and sherry-creamed cipollini on- ions 9.95 each per pound and potato gra-Smoked Pictured Ducktrap River Spruce Point Pepper Garlic smoked salmon. Yhe 4-oz. package is available at Harbor Fish Market for 7.99 as is the 4-oz. pack- age of Sullivan Harbor smoked salmon. Browne Trading smokes and cures salm- on in-housea pound of Scotch-cured smoked salmon is 20.99. RoeHighLow Pictured Domestic salmon roe caviar from Browne Trading Co. is 10 per ounce. A 20-gram jar of German Ose- tra caviar is 65. Domestic caviar weight is measured by the ounce imported in grams. There are many more caviars domestic and imported to be found at this seafood gour- met and wine shop on Commercial Street that includes tony Manhattan restaurants among its clients. Fizzy Find ultra special-occasion Pol Roger champagne for 310 at Browne Trading and 12 La Luna prosecco. Prosecco may be the best value among sparklers it goes for as low as 6.99 at Trader Joes.